THE CENOTES OF THE EJIDO TULUM
¨THE BEGINNING¨
By STEVE GERRARD – NACD CAVE DIVING INSTRUCTOR #39
My first visit to the Caribbean coast of Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula was during April, 1982 on a seven day cruise trip from Tampa, Florida. The ship anchored offshore at a tiny fishing village called Playa Del Carmen that had two sand roads. One was named Juarez that connected to Highway 307 and the beach road would later be called 5th Avenue. My father – Robert – and I were on a seven day cruise ship trip from Tampa, Florida. We participated on a two scuba tank dive trip on a local fishing ponga boat and dived on a nice, shallow reef off Punta Bete. I did not realize that I would be returning for many more visits and eventually live on this beautiful coast.
That next visit arrived during the week of May 27th, 1986 as I was invited to fly from my home in Tallahassee, Florida to Cancun as a guest of Parker Turner. Parker and I had met him three months earlier as Parker was a cave diving student of mine. Parker and his wife Penny had lived in Cancun for nine months during 1984 -1985. It was during that time Parker met a couple – Mike and Kathy Madden – who had opened a new dive store named CEDAM DIVE CENTER located at the new hotel located at Aventuras Akumal. Parker and Mike began diving together and were fascinated by a cenote called the Carwash located on the Coba Road seven kilometers from the village of Tulum. This cenote was known locally as Cenote Aktun Ha. This cenote was very popular for open water diving with the Akumal Dive Shop in Akumal, particularly when the ocean was too rough for boat diving and for swimming for the people of Tulum. Mike and Parker realized the cenote had not been explored by cave divers as no one locally was trained for such a specialized activity. Parker had some experience with cave diving during the summer of 1971 while as a teenager he worked at Pop’s Skin Diving Shop located in Clearwater, Florida. He was being mentored by the cave diving legend and the first equipment inventor of reels and primary lights – Frank Martz who lived nearby in Largo, Florida. Tragically, Frank died in September, 1971 while diving a very deep blue hole cave in the Bahamas and his body was never recovered. This event discouraged Parker from continuing with cave diving until this exciting new opportunity with the Cenote Carwash. Parker and Mike began exploring the cave passages and their first discovery was a small room downstream they named “Chamber of the Ancients”. In this salt water room they found a unique limestone feature that had a carved shelf and contained charcoal. It is believed that an Indian culture pre-Maya was burning wood in search for fresh water as the charcoal was later carbon dated to be 9800 years old. Parker and Mike realized they needed more training if they were to continue exploring the Cenote Carwash safely and successfully.
They decided to fly to New Orleans, Louisiana and attended the four days 1985 DEMA Scuba Trade Show during the last week of January. Their goal was to find and hire a cave diving Instructor and obtain more cave diving specialized equipment. While visiting the National Association for Cave Diving (NACD) booth they met NSS-CDS Cave Diving Instructor Jeff Bozanic and invited him to come to the Yucatan and teach a cave diving course. Jeff flew to Cancun from Miami, Florida in March, 1985 for a two week visit and taught the first cave diving courses in Mexico. The students were Parker, Mike, Johanna De Groot of Holland and Hector Indriago of Caracas, Venezuela. After the courses were successfully completed and everyone was cave diving certified, Jeff returned to Miami, Florida. It was a few weeks later that Parker and Mike wanted to share a secret with their friend Hector. Exploring upstream the Cenote Carwash, they discovered a pretty room that was much decorated. Parker thought it was the most beautiful place he had ever viewed in his life. They took Hector to this room for him to witness. After the dive, Parker asked Hector what he thought of this room. Hectors reply was, “It was so beautiful, it brought tears to my eyes!” That’s it!, Parker shouted. We will call it “The Room of Tears”. Thus, was the beginning of countless discoveries to occur in the future.
The reason why Parker took a cave diving training course from me during March, 1986 was Parker desperately wanted a NACD cave diving certification card. Jeff Bozanic, at that time, represented only the National Speleological Society – Cave Diving Section. I was the President of the NACD and the only Instructor teaching cave diving as a full time job. Jeff gave Parker my name to contact. Parker’s obsession with the NACD was because of Frank Martz. The NACD had just officially started their cave diving training program in 1970 and Frank was designated a Cave Diving Instructor. However, after his death, his name was never officially recognized as a Cave Diving Instructor by the NACD.
During the summer of 1985, Parker and his wife Penny returned to Parker’s hometown of Shreveport, Louisiana, USA because Penny was pregnant and they decided to have the child in the United States. The third week of March, 1986 Parker drove from Louisiana and was a guest at my home in Tallahassee, Florida and we began the cave training course for him. We instantly bonded both with our personalities and we shared the same birthday – June 9th. Parker was one year older than me. During this enjoyable week of cave diving, Parker introduced me to his brand new SONY 8mm video camera and these powerful strobes lights he obtained from a German company in Europe. He was using the new SONY yellow underwater video camera housing. In addition, Parker was continuously telling me of this exquisite room he found in Mexico that he named “The Room of Tears”. After we completed the week of diving and training, Parker had earned his NACD cave diving certification. It was two weeks later that Parker called me on the telephone and invited me to fly to Mexico as he had access to a two-bedroom condo at Half Moon Bay in Akumal and help him shoot a video of “The Room of Tears”. I did not anticipate that this trip would be a life changing event for me.
On Saturday afternoon, May 27th, 1986 I arrived at the Cancun International Airport as Parker picked me up in his 1985 Chevrolet Astro van that he kept in Cancun. He had flown into Cancun from Shreveport a week earlier. We drove south on the old black asphalt Highway 307 with no shoulders and jungle surrounding both sides. This was definitely a new frontier! My purpose for this trip was to help Parker and his friend Mike Madden shoot an 8mm video tape of this magical room called “The Room of Tears”. I was to be the Safety Diver. This week would be the first time in history of cave diving that an underwater 8mm video tape would be filmed. Our first day of diving on Sunday, May 28th, Parker introduced me to Mike and Kathy Madden. This couple owned and operated their new dive store – CEDAM DIVE CENTER – at the Aventuras Akumal resort hotel, which is now the Royal Oasis Resort. Mike had put together several sets of double Aluminum 80 cubic foot cylinders for cave diving. Parker and I loaded his van with two sets of doubles and prepared our equipment for my first introductory dive at the Cenote Carwash and to “The Room of Tears”. Upon our arrival to this cenote on the Coba Road, I had no clue that in future years I would have the opportunity to be the first or among the very few to be exploring the many cenotes found along this seven kilometer area of dense jungle.
.Parker explained a brief history of the cenote and how it got its name as the tale was told that the taxis of Tulum would wash their cars during the 1970’s as the remains of a cement base with steel rods to hold a water pump still exist at the southeast end today . We donned our wetsuits, strapped into our gear and entered the water. Wow, it was definitely warmer water than in Florida. Parker tied off his guideline from his primary reel and we began our swim upstream. He informed me of a much smaller cenote located 330 meters further into the cave, which was named Luke’s Hope after a Canadian tourist open water diver who had become lost in 1984 and accidentally found it thus saving his life. This opening to the surface was clogged with a huge curtain of tree roots. It was 40 meters beyond this cenote that Parker and Mike had found a small hole on the left side of the main cave passage that led them to two rooms. This tunnel they called the Madden-Turner passage with the first room they named the Cristal Palace. As we slithered down a steep slope from the Cristal Palace we entered into the area that Parker was so proud of. As I entered the chamber, my vision clearly understood Parker’s enthrallment as the columns, stalactites, soda straws and the array of color grabbed you as if sucked into a children’s kaleidoscope of magic and allure. I was impressed and sold! The best of the best had begun.
I now knew that I was shown something very special. We spent the next four days shooting video footage as Mike operated the camera with Parker and me as the cave diving team being filmed. With one dive on Monday, May 29th, Parker and Mike took me downstream to the room they named “The Chamber of the Ancients” and I got my first glimpse of the charcoal and the rock formation they called “The Fire Pit”. It was a gorgeous, small hall of cobalt blue salt water and beautiful decorations. As we were exiting the Chamber, right below the saltwater/freshwater halocline level, Parker and I immediately recognized and identified a tiny creature known as Remipedia. This troglobitic animal is the world’s oldest living crustacean first found in the Bahamas by Dr. Jill Yager (now retired and living in Puerto Morelos) in 1980. This centipede looking organism was the first discovery anywhere besides the Bahamas. The sighting soon became big news in the science world!
On my last diving day, Friday, June 3rd we finished our filming and Parker wanted to begin the editing process. Therefore, Mike and I chose to dive Cenote Cristal located three kilometers south of Tulum on Highway 307. It was first explored and being mapped by Jim Coke who worked at the Akumal Dive Shop. Jim moved to Akumal in 1984 from Ohio in the United States and he too, clearly recognized the potential of the cenotes. He took his cave diving training course in North Florida from NSS-CDS Cave Instructor Mark Leonard of Lake City, Florida the fall of 1985. Mike and I swam upstream on a passage beyond an area called the “Double Domes”. We found the end of the exploration line as we had brought with us an exploration reel. We installed another 500 feet/156 meters of line before we had to call the dive on our air supply. I was surprised by the difference of this cave compared with the Cenote Carwash as the walls, columns, everything was stained a very dark brown color by tannic acid.¼br />
On Saturday, June 4th, Parker wanted to present the edited but raw footage of the 8 mm video film to any interested hotel guests and divers of the hotel resort in Aventuras Akumal. He invited Jim Coke and Johanna De Groot over from Akumal Dive Shop to view the work. The 17 minute presentation in the hotel salon was a huge hit and both cave divers were impressed in what we had done. I was quite proud to be a part of it. On Sunday Parker took me back to the airport for my return flight home to Tallahassee, Florida. Somehow, I knew I would return as several people had expressed interest in cave diving training as the word got out that I was a NACD cave diving Instructor, the Editor of the NACD Journal and the President of the NACD. How true that quickly became as my next visit was in August, 1986.¼br />
Steve Gerrard resides in Puerto Aventuras and continues teaching safe cave diving training courses and guiding qualified cave divers. The video of “The Room of Tears” has been converted into a DVD format and several copies have been presented to members of Ejido Tulum – proud owners of the Cenote Carwash, Cenote Cristal and Cenote Escondido. The DVD is available for purchase. Tragically, Parker Turner died on Sunday, October 17th, 1991 while diving at Indain Springs Cave System, Wakulla County, Florida. It was a freak, unusual geological event where a steep slope of sand shifted 150 feet/33 meters from the cave entrance and temporarily blocked the cave passage. Parker’s actions to solve this horrible dilemma saved the life of his diving partner – Bill Gavin. Parker’s death is the only cave diving accident NOT the result of human error. Steve dedicated his book THE CENOTES of the RIVIERA MAYA (January, 2000) to the memory of Parker Allen Turner.