BOB THORPE & KEN BOSKO
On Thursday, January 31st, 2008 my friends Bob Thorpe and Ken Bosko flew into Cancun from Detroit, Michigan. They knew I was teaching a complete cave diving course and I was unable to pick them up at the airport. However, these guys have been through the procedure before on previous trips with catching the direct Riviera Maya Aeropuerto Bus to Playa Del Carmen and then hiring a taxi cab for the short 18 minute ride to Puerto Aventuras. The bus is 80 pesos and the cab is 140 pesos. They knew the drill to avoid an expensive taxi ride from the airport to Puertoland. When I got home that Thursday night, they had already settled into the 001 Condo Suite of the La Costa Condominium building. I had already sent them by email my 10 day proposed diving agenda. They were psyched and ready for another great diving adventure!
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 1st, 2008
For Friday, February 1st we performed a stage dive at CENOTE CHAN HOL (which is now part of SISTEMA TOH HA) that totalled over 160 minutes of bottom time as we explored several offshoot lines and viewed several archaeological sites. It was a great dive and, incredibly, no other cave divers showed up as this cave has become quite a popular cave system for cave divers.
We had lunch in Tulum at the popular Don Cafeto Restaurant.
For the afternoon, I had a planned obligation to fulfil, therefore I suggested to Bob & Ken to do an OCEAN dive from the shore swimming from the entry point in front of Jim McClure’s home across the street from my La Costa Condominium building. They jumped on that opportunity like a flea on Joe T. Cocker. They swam 50 minutes out to the wall in front of Puerto Aventuras (1.1 kilometres) to a depth of 200 feet/60 meters breathing on trimix gas (of course, using a travel gas of Eanx 32 to the 120 feet/36 meter depth). On their return swim they enjoyed the beautiful reefs located in front of Puertoland to off gas the nasty inert gases they absorbed into their precious and fragile bodies. They were quite impressed with how easy it is to dive in front of Puerto Aventuras from the shore providing it is relatively calm seas. This day was very calm.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2008
For today we performed Bob & Ken’s first DPV dive in a cave at CENOTE CHAC MOOL. Both men have has much experience using the SUBMERGE DPV machines in Lake Michigan. The transition to the cave environment would be a piece a cake for them as they easily proved it as we traversed from CENOTE CHAC MOOL to CENOTE PASCAL in 22 minutes. We carried a stage bottle to answer the question for a DPV failure as the distance between the two cenotes that is 3600 feet/1090 meters. Our return ride on the ponies was 21 minutes to CENOTE CHAC MOOL. For a second short dive we motored to the Monster Room located 1600 feet/485 meters downstream in twelve minutes. On our way back I had Bob and Ken practice sharing gas while motoring. It was a great morning session. For lunch, we went back to the Puerto Aventuras marina for the world’s best cheeseburgers at Richard’s Restaurant.
Our afternoon dive we drove south to the Labna Ha road to check out a cenote that is now accessible by vehicle. A week earlier Lena Ericson and I had checked out this newly constructed road. As it turns out this cenote is called CENOTE RALLE and maximum depth of 17 feet and nearly 1100 feet/333 meters.
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2008
Today’s dive was to use the SUBMERGE ponies on the wall in front of Puerto Aventuras. We would use double 80´s with Trimix, single 80 with Eanx 32 for our travel gas and a 40 cubic foot oxygen bottle. We entered the ocean in front of Jim McClure’s home. The seas were a tad rough but we safely managed to get all the gear into water without being damaged. Once we were underwater it took us sixteen minutes to motor out to the wall and we headed south against the current with our depths ranging from 200 – 230 feet/60 – 69 meters. The plan was to cruise the wall at these depths for 20 – 23 minutes. We began our return to shallower depths at 22 minutes. The highlight of the dive was observing a school of sailfish swimming 50 feet/15 meters above us with their dorsal fins fully extended. That was an awesome sight! Bob and Ken were completely stoked as we hugged the massive wall observing giant barrel sponges and plenty of black coral. For our decompression obligations, cruising the shallow reefs was fun as I showed the guys all the best locations. What was really impressive were the huge schools of tropical fish swimming amongst the stag horn, pillar and elk horn coral. At Jim’s cave we tried to find ERNIE the green moray eel, but for the first time in five years he was not home. After completing our deco, we motored to the proper underwater channel that would take us straight back to our entry point. Everything went according to our plan and Bob and Ken were very HAPPY divers as motoring on a deep wall dive is really cool to do.For the night we all had great rib eye steak dinners at Richard’s Steakhouse with Lena Ericson, Connie LoRe, Pablo Diaz Lavin and his beautiful wife Nayeli. It was a very fun evening.
MONDAY. FEBRUARY 4, 2008
For this day I had requested from the guys the opportunity to drive south on Highway 307 all the way to the Maya town of Felipe Carrillo Puerto as five kilometres further south I had a Google aerial photo of seven small lakes. I was curious to see if any potential for caves was possible. In addition, it appeared to be quite an impressive hydrological drainage area. We left at 7:00 a.m. for the two hour drive and manage to get to the largest lake by 9:30 a.m. It was a beautiful view but no evidence of any cenotes. This particular sight would be an awesome location for vacation home. It was at the fifth lake that we found signs leading us to a cenote that had a wood dock. I volunteered to jump in with my mask and fins and lowered my UWATEC Smart Pro computer attached to a string from my primary stainless steel Ralph Hood (Undercurrent) reel. I got a depth of 65 feet/19 meters. I decided it was worth putting on my doubles and diving the cenote. While I gearing up a group of five young local folks showed up all enjoying the enhancement of SOL cerveza. They quickly informed us that there a crocodile in the cenote. I said that was no problem as the only thing that disgusts me were the slimy ass gaytors of Gainesville, Florida. Hey, a loyal Seminole is a loyal Nole! Using the ladder from the dock I carefully got into the water, performed all my equipment checks and began my descent. I reached a depth of 70 feet/21 meters with a cave opening that only went back 40 feet/12 meters. No underwater cave system and no crocodile. When I reached the surface, there was Ken posing for photos with our new five amigos being goofy as he can be (Just kidding Ken!). I got dressed back into my street clothes and we packed up my truck and said goodbye to our happy friends.
Driving back we stopped at a Mayan village located 4 kilometres east of Highway 307 hoping we may luck out and find a local known cenote. For me, it is always fascinating observing the many small villages throughout the Yucatan seeing how people have lived for hundreds of years. Back in the town of Felipe Carillo Puerto we toured several neighborhoods. Now we were on our way back to Tulum and I was desperately thinking in where could we make a dive that would be something new for us. That is when my light bulb went off in my head and I thought of CENOTE X´KEKEN. This very small cenote was first dived by Halario Hiler back in 1987 and was further explored by Steve Keene and Sue Sharples. All reports said the cave was small and did not go far. It is located one kilometre south of the village of Jose Maria Pino Suarez on the east side of Highway 307 very close to the road (Beyond the new guard rail for the highway). I do not know who the land owner is but a year ago the property was being used as a commercial nursery. Now the land is abandoned and over grown. Basically, it is a hole that you must climb down into a small dry chamber. Luckily, is not difficult and you can do it with double tanks. A stone wall has been constructed around the cenote and a PVC pipe has been placed through another very small hole down into a pool of water just big enough for three cave divers. There is an upstream and down stream passages with a maximum depth of 28 feet/8 meters.
The reports were fairly correct as I found the cave interesting but nothing to excite the Pope. The upstream had several leads with no line in them. After the dive I suggested to Bob & Ken they may want to return to this cave as I felt they may have potential for further exploration. A week later they did return but all the leads looped back into the main passage. Oh well, if you don’t go, you won’t know! After we packed we stopped in Chemuyil for PIZZA LEO at Leo’s Pizzeria as it always a great place to enjoy the end of another great day.
TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2008
Today’s dive was at SISTEMA SAC XIQUIN located near SISTEMA TUHS KUPAXA. We got a late start as I had to take of some business in Puerto Morelos as my friend Captain Kirk Scott had sold his sailboat during the weekend and I volunteered to get his personal belongings shipped back to the United States. I owed Kirk a big favour and Bob and Ken were gracious to allow me the time to take care of delivering all of Kirk’s belongings to the Custom Agents for in Puerto Morelos for shipping to Port Everglades in Florida.
I consider this cave in my top five in beauty and decorations. The only negative thing of this cave is the five minute hike humping your gear. SISTEMA SAC XIQUIN has over 5747 feet/1741 meters of explored passages by Robbie Schmittner and Gunnar Wagner. We swam in six minutes to the second ¨T¨ intersection and turned right. If you swim to the left you traversed 1800 feet to another cenote. We swam another 7 minutes and at this ¨T¨ intersection we turned left. This passage makes a turn to the right and you swim into a huge room. The passage ends 800 feet/242 meters later. The decorations and formations are stunning! We swam back to the ¨T¨ intersection and followed his line for 500 feet/151 meters as it becoming very small and uninteresting. We returned to the third ¨T¨ intersection and then back to the second ¨T¨ intersection and then to the first ¨T¨ intersection, which is three minutes from the exit. We decided to swim this line for 600 feet/181 meters and we encountered a fourth T¨¨ intersection. Our dive was two hours and the guys were very pleased with what we saw and experienced. My fun was constantly swimming up to Ken and switching off his primary HID light. The first few times he could not figure out what was going on but then he figured things out. It was a hoot watching his puzzlement in why his light was turning off. I love being a prankster.
After the dive, we drove into Chemuyil and you guessed it. Pizza Leo’s and refreshments for another great day of diving!
WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 6th, 2008
Today’s dive was at CENOTE SAC BE HA. This is a very pretty cave system that is now connected into SISTEMA TOH HA, which is now at 75,108 feet /25,899 meters and connected into 13 different cenotes including CENOTE CHAN HOL. This cenote is located two kilometres north of CENOTE CHAN HOL on the west side of Highway 307 on RANCHO LUUM before you approach the curve on the highway. As stated before, this cave area was explored and mapped by Nadia Berni and David Seiff who were married on Monday, March 24th on Tulum Beach. We had a great dive as we swam downstream and upstream becoming more familiar and learning this cave. I got a kick out of the variety of names written on the white directional line arrows such as storm, pig killer, new visa, therapy, reconstruction, strong coffee, eastern block, story of my life, cat killer, rear door, caraval, SEAT???, roots, Sahara and many, many more. There were no wasps to deal with on this entry as before in January and Bob & Ken were thoroughly impressed with this cave.
For the afternoon we planned to dive a new cave system called SISTEMA AKTUN HU – the Iguana cave. I have already posted on my blogger about this new cave system. Basically, the first two exploration dives were through Labna Ha with Sergio Granucci and Pep Linares with a few paying customers. I had written that Alex Alverez of the Aquatic Tulum Dive Center, who is always very polite and a great guy, had paid the land owners money to explore the cave as was told to me. Further talks with Alex and with Beto Navo (another polite and great guy) is the exploration being conducted was by invitation by one of the land owners and that problems had arisen between the Labna Ha camp and the land owner(s). I had met two of the land owners out of three. One is Alex Chimal whose phone number is 984 – 132 – 68 25 and the web site is HTTP://TAMAKIS-RIVIERMAYA.COM. Alex is a very friendly fellow who encouraged divers to come and dive the cave. A few weeks later I met another land owner who lives in Cancun, however I do not know his name and he was very unfriendly and seemed to want no part of divers diving the cave system unless you want to pay a lot of money. The bottom line is there disagreement between the land owners on what to charge and blah, blah, blah. It is too bad as this cave is definitely is a great cave dive. I will further elaborate in more posts later. Bob, Ken and I had a great dive and were very impressed despite the fact we humped our double tanks out to the cenote, which is a 8 – 10 minute hike. This particular day the ATV machines were not available. The dive made up for the work. On our way home, we stopped at the new location for OSCAR Y LALO´s Restaurant. They are now located directly on Highway 307. The old location on Soliman Bay was badly damaged from storm surge from Hurricane Dean of last year. The Constance family now want to develop the land for condominiums and that is why the restaurant was moved out to Highway 307. Too bad as that location was one of the last places where one could enjoy the ocean and enjoy a great meal and refreshments and no view of a resort or hotels. The good news is the food is still great and Lalo has really made the ambiance of the new location inviting and comfortable.
Speaking of great little restaurants and little hotels on the beach, I am very sad to report that the great CAFÉ DEL MAR and Hotel located on Xpu Ha Beach next door to the Catalonia Tulum Spa Resort (formerly the Casablanca Resort) is now permanently closed. Leon managed a great place, which was always nice to have an excellent meal directly on a great beach with pleasant things to view and enjoy. Many cave divers have stayed at the DEL MAR HOTEL including several of my students and guest cave divers. The property owner is planning to develop the land into a big resort/hotel, of course. The paradise of the Riviera Maya continues to erode away each day.
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7th, 2008
For today, we used the SUBMERGE ponies for a traverse dive from CENOTE DOS OJOS to the CENOTE THE PIT. I love doing this dive. Though Ken and Bob did a deep dive (280 feet/84 meters) in the CENOTE THE PIT on their previous trip in October 2006, this DPV dive would provide the excitement for their pony riding skills. We made it to the CENOTE THE PIT in 94 minutes. We surfaced with no other divers using the dive site. This cenote is growing in popularity as the access is slowly becoming easier. I am almost able to drive my truck all the way to the cenote. I am sure the EJIDO JACINTO PAT will put down sascab and smooth out the roadway for allowing vehicles to be able drive that last 600 feet/181 meters. The Ejido has now constructed a wooden deck at one side of the cenote edge. Now they need to build a quality set of stairs. Our return journey back to the CENOTE DOS OJOS was really smooth and enjoyable with a maximum time of 199 minutes underwater. Bob and Ken´s skill with the SUBMERGE DPVS was very impressive and they were quite happy with the dive.
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8th, 2008
Today was something new for us. We signed on with Dennis Week’s AQUANUATS dive store to do a boat trip to the newest rage for diving the ocean in the Riviera Maya. That is diving with the BULL SHARKS located in front of Playa Del Carmen. There were nine paying customers including my neighbor Jim McClure. Apparently, during the past few years it has been noticed and recognized that a population of bull sharks hang out in the 80 – 100 foot/24 – 30 meters depths. The theory is the sharks are attracted by the electrode magnetic buzz of the electrical power cables that are laid across the channel to Cozumel from Playa Del Carmen. OK, I will buy that. There have been enough dive operations using this particular area bringing fish bait and chum where the sharks will swim in to investigate and sometimes take the food. Our Dive Master was the awesome Luis who works for Dennis. The plan was for the nine of us to form a semi-circle on the sand floor at 80 feet/24 meters (yes, Hogarthian perfection of buoyancy control went to hell) and Luis would have a plastic bag of bait to lure the sharks in. Now mind you, Dennis has this great video of a previous dive of the Bull Sharks really coming in for the bait food. Therefore, everyone in our group was psyched with anticipation.
The ride on the boat was thoroughly enjoyable as the weather was perfect and the seas were very calm. It was memory trail for me as back in the late 80´s, Dr. Les Willis would take me on reef dives along the coast from Paalmu (ScubaMex Dive Store) and there was NOTHING but jungle, not even Puerto Aventuras. Now, it is really not that bad. Soon as you get north of the AVENTURAS SPA resort it is mostly jungle except for the CALICA PORT and the tourist family adventure spot of X¨CERET. Of course, then you hit the PLAYACAR 14 resorts zone where it is wall-to-wall beach umbrellas. Just beyond the pier for the ferries for Cozumel we see this huge mega-yacht that definitely is over 330 feet/100 meters long. I immediately assumed it belongs to the golfing legend star Greg Norman from Australia as I knew he has a huge yacht and he was scheduled to play a golf tournament at the new mega resort called the MAYAKOBA, which is an exclusive resort for the elite, whatever that means. Hell, most GUE divers think they are elite. However, it belongs to the billionaire CARLOS PERALTA QUINTERO who is owner and President of the IUSA Corporation, which is a huge electrical/telecommunications company. He was vacationing in front of Play Del Carmen on his yacht called the ¨PRINCESS MARIANA. This boat is seven stories high and has two heliports, one tender yacht and a fleet of Ski-doos.¼br /> OK. We reach our destination directly in front of Playa Del Carmen, which to me makes no sense why these considered man-killer sharks are lurking in the local waters unbeknownst to all the tourists swimming in the water from the beaches.
Luis prepares us and presents a great dive plan that basically follows everything I previously have said. We enter the water as a group entry, we descend in what I think is pretty darn good visibility as I could immediately see the bottom. We reach the sandy floor and form our semi-circle. Yes, I did bring my Nikon 100 (now pre-historic) digital camera with my Light & Motion Titan U/W housing to take my first photos in the ocean with this particular camera system. I had so much fun just taking photos of Bob & Ken on their knees waiting for a shark(s) to show up as this was clearly against everything they know about excellent buoyancy control.
After twenty minutes and no sharks I am beginning to feel this whole charade is a rip-off. Diving at a depth of 82 feet/25 meters, my no decompression profile was not looking like the most appealing situation. (Yes, everyone was breathing 32% Eanx) Suddenly, we saw a seven foot/2.1 meter shark appear from 40 feet/12 meters, but no closer. Cool! A shark is a shark, yes? It swam by from a distance and made two passes before disappearing. Then another shark appeared or it could have been the same one but it did not stay long. I was using my 12 mm – 24 mm wide angle lenses and getting a photo of the shark(s) was almost useless. What was intriguing was the multitude of trigger fish swimming around. They were like pesky mosquitoes flying about. In fact, they were becoming quite annoying as they swam around your face and poor Luis had to constantly beat them off from taking the bait food. I had heard that a tourist open water diver had got his face mangled by a trigger fish a few days earlier in the Playa Del Carmen area. In addition, we had several remora fish swimming around that I took as a good sign for sharks to be in the area. Then our third and last shark appeared and it was close to 10 feet/3 meters. It came within 40 feet/12 meters and had a three foot/one meter cobia (folks in Florida call them ling) trailing behind it and a nice size remora. This was good. I was able to get three decent photos. After 38 minutes, it was time to ascend to the surface to do our safety stops. In my opinion, the sharks not swimming in closer to the divers was a little bit disappointing. However, the potential for this type of dive to become better is definitely wide open. If the consistency of divers showing up with bait food, the sharks will come closer and I was told there are good days when, in fact, the bull sharks do come closer to the divers. Now, some folks say that feeding sharks is not a cool thing to do and I understand that. In addition, some people say bull sharks are dangerous. It was a fun dive and witnessing these magnificent animals is quite a rush.
For our second shallow dive we parked the boat directly in front of X´ceret and had lunch and refreshments. This drift dive was really good as we were diving Barracuda Reef. The reef is in 35 – 45 feet/10.3 – 13 meters and comes off the sand floor 10 -15 feet/3 – 5 meters with many overhangs, caves and plenty of tropical fish. I went crazy with my camera praying that my strobes would last the entire 70 minute dive. I got a great photo of a sea turtle munching on soft coral with Bob in the back ground. Bob got a better photo of the turtle with me in the back ground. This turtle showed no fear. I saw two green moray eels, however they were shy for the camera. Overall, I rate Barracuda Reef excellent as I was very impressed. Overall, it was a fun day and Bob, Ken and I were quite satisfied with what we experienced. Hopefully, this proves that I do dive the reefs and the ocean.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 9th, 2008
Today we dived CENOTE DOS PISOS doing an underwater photo shoot. This dive site is located on the RANCHO CAMPE on the west side of Highway 307
six kilometres south of Tulum. The family have made more improvements of their new road and now it is only a three minute hike from where you can park your vehicle to the furthest downstream cenote called CENOTE PIG. The photo shoot was very successful despite one of my main strobes not firing. However, with digital photography, you can easily adjust from two to one strobes manipulating the power of the strobes, the F stops and the positioning of the strobe. I got enough good shots of Bob & Ken to make the effort of the dive worthwhile. As stated before, I think this cave is one of the prettiest in the Riviera Maya. In addition, it is a gold mine for photo opportunities.
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 10th, 2008
Today we dived CENOTE VACA HA with the intent to traverse to CENOTE TOUCHA HA (also known as CENOTE ZAPOTE). Our goal was to leave a slate with a cute message on the wood platform of CENOTE TOUCHA HA for the land owner Richard Molesky to read. Richard has his restaurant in Puerto Aventuras and owns the STOP n´ GO mini super in Tulum near the intersection of Highway 307 and the Coba Road. Richard bought this property from DON CAMILO in 1995 and has transformed it into an impressive ranch. He has created a huge spider monkey compound for rescued monkeys, a very nice Mayab deer (little white tail deer) compound and a lagoon with ducks that now has a few resident crocodiles (the ducks are not happy). In addition, he has a stable with many horses.
CENOTE VACA HA was connected into the SISTEMA TOUCHA HA cave system four years ago. However, the cave passage from CENOTE VACA HA is quite small and has much clay silt but is doable with double tanks. At least, that is what I told Ken and Bob. To make a long story short, we failed to make the traverse as we made it to THE STADIUM ROOM but had to turnaround with our gas supply. Oh well! However, our return swim in the small passage was by Braille as we probably had two too many divers for the team. Let us just say it was a type of dive that Mr. Guideline really becomes your best pal. It was an interesting dive to complete 10 days of diving with Ken and Bob.
Though this was my last day diving with Bob and Ken they did have three more days of their two week visit. I had a cave diving course with two students starting on Monday morning. Overall, Ken and Bob were quite happy with their diving with me. For the fourth time, they said this was their best trip yet and I am confident I will make their next visit better. It is always a great pleasure diving with Bob Thorpe and Ken Bosko.